It was a long way up for the humble zipper, the
mechanical wonder that has kept so much in our lives 'together.' On its way up
the zipper has passed through the hands of several dedicated inventors, none
convinced the general public to accept the zipper as part of everyday costume.
The magazine and fashion industry made the novel zipper the popular item it is
today, but it happened nearly eighty years after the zipper's first appearance.
Elias Howe, who invented the sewing machine received a
patent in 1851 for an 'Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure.' Perhaps it was
the success of the sewing machine, which caused Elias not to pursue marketing
his clothing closure. As a result, Howe missed his chance to become the
recognized 'Father of the Zip.'
Forty-four years later, Mr. Whitcomb Judson (who also
invented the 'Pneumatic Street Railway') marketed a 'Clasp Locker' a device
similar to the 1851 Howe patent. Being first to market gave Whitcomb the credit
of being the 'Inventor of the Zipper', However, his 1893 patent did not use the
word zipper. The Chicago inventor's 'Clasp Locker' was a complicated
hook-and-eye shoe fastener. Together with businessman Colonel Lewis Walker,
Whitcomb launched the Universal Fastener Company to manufacture the new device.
The clasp locker had its public debut at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair and met
with little commercial success.
Swedish-born (who later immigrated to Canada), Gideon
Sundback, an electrical engineer, was hired to work for the Universal Fastener
Company. Good design skills and a marriage to the plant-manager's daughter
Elvira Aronson led Sundback to the position of head designer at Universal. He
was responsible for improving the far from perfect 'Judson C-curity Fastener.'
Unfortunately, Sundback's wife died in 1911. The grieving husband busied
himself at the design table and by December of 1913, he had designed the modern
zipper.
Gideon Sundback increased the number of fastening
elements from four per inch to ten or eleven, had two facing-rows of teeth that
pulled into a single piece by the slider, and increased the opening for the
teeth guided by the slider. The patent for the 'Separable Fastener' was issued
in 1917. Sundback also created the manufacturing machine for the new zipper.
The 'S-L' or scrapless machine took a special Y-shaped wire and cut scoops from
it, then punched the scoop dimple and nib, and clamped each scoop on a cloth
tape to produce a continuous zipper chain. Within the first year of operation,
Sundback's zipper-making machinery was producing a few hundred feet of fastener
per day.
The popular 'zipper' name came from the B. F. Goodrich
Company, when they decided to use Gideon's fastener on a new type of rubber
boots or galoshes and renamed the device the zipper, the name that lasted.
Boots and tobacco pouches with a zippered closure were the two chief uses of
the zipper during its early years. It took twenty more years to convince the
fashion industry to seriously promote the novel closure on garments.
In the 1930's, a sales campaign began for children's
clothing featuring zippers. The campaign praised zippers for promoting
self-reliance in young children by making it possible for them to dress in
self-help clothing. The zipper beat the button in the 1937 in the "Battle
of the Fly," when French fashion designers raved over zippers in men's
trousers. Esquire magazine declared the zipper the "Newest Tailoring Idea
for Men" and among the zippered fly's many virtues was that it would
exclude "The Possibility of Unintentional and Embarrassing Disarray."
Obviously, the new zippered trouser owners had not yet discovered the
experience of forgetting to zip-up.
The next big boost for the zipper came when zippers could
open on both ends, as on jackets. Today the zipper is everywhere, in clothing,
luggage and leather goods and countless other objects. Thousands of zipper
miles produced daily, meet the needs of consumers, thanks to the early efforts
of the many famous zipper inventors.









